QUESTION: I am anticipating a major remodeling project. I don't know if I should try subcontracting the work myself or if I should hire a general contractor. Do you have any suggestions on the pros and cons of subcontracting yourself vs. the expense of a general contractor?
ANSWER: Absolutely! If in doubt, go with a qualified general contractor for a major undertaking. With that in mind, the checklist below will help you get the most from your home improvement dollars and avoid problems on those large projects when you need to hire a contractor.
Have a plan. Make a thorough list of the work you want to have done. It's best to have a drawn plan and materials list.
Get at least three written estimates, each of which should be based on the same building specifications and materials. Make sure that any contractor you consider is licensed and insured (state laws in most areas require a bond). Look for someone who has been in business at least five years. Ask to see insurance certificates for both general liability and workers' compensation. Call the insurance company to make sure the certificates are valid.
Get references from contractors and inspect jobs they have previously done as well as talk with each previous client. Never hire anyone who comes to your door seeking unsolicited business.
Get a written detailed contract. A provision for changes should be included and all subsequent changes should be in writing and signed. The contract should include a one-year workmanship warranty and specific start and completion dates.
Never allow a contractor to rush you into signing a contract. Thoroughly study your contract and ask questions concerning any areas that are not clearly understood.
Payment upon signing of the contract should not exceed 10 percent of the estimate. Subsequent payments should not exceed the cost of time and materials on work completed. Never pay cash to a contractor. Use checks or money orders.
Remember that the lowest bid is not automatically the best bid. Take a critical look at all of your bids and offers. Make sure bids, estimates or offers are all in writing.
Make sure your contractor gets all necessary building permits, unless otherwise stated in the contract.
Protect yourself from liens, in the event your contractor fails to pay a subcontractor or materials suppliers, by adding a release-of-lien clause to the contract.
Thoroughly inspect the work before making final payment or signing a completion certificate.
Second-story job
We are anticipating the construction of a second level on our home. Some time ago I read one of your columns dealing with sound barriers between floors. Our home was constructed to support a second level and has a concrete subfloor already on that level. However, I would like some suggestions on how I might incorporate sound controls between levels during this remodeling project. Your advice would be appreciated.
You are wise to address this problem prior to construction, when you still have some flexibility. I would suggest that you consider the installation of additional insulation, such as foam panels, now widely used in building construction to deter the transfer of heat and cold as well as sound. An additional layer of concrete over the insulation panels will provide extra soundproofing. Check with local building experts in your area to see if this is feasible.
The selection of a suitable floor covering on the second level, such as carpeting with a fairly substantial padding, will also help deter sound transmission. In case the addition of adequate soundproofing of the second floor is not feasible, there are methods of retrofitting the ceiling on the lower level that will help reduce the transmission of sound from above.
If the first-level ceiling height permits, you can get some soundproofing benefits by installing a new drywall ceiling on resilient channels. Resilient channels help stop the transmission of sound between floors. (The channels aren't a standard item at most home centers so you will probably have to buy them from a building supply firm.) Attach the channels to the joists 4 inches on center, the same as wall construction.
Another option would be to install a dropped ceiling – a suspended metal grid on which acoustical panels rest. There are two types of panels that drop into the grid of a suspended ceiling; each handles sound differently. Flexible fiberglass panels will help deaden and absorb noise within the room itself, but won't do much to block sound leaving or entering the room. You will want to choose the more rigid mineral board panels, which do a better job of blocking sounds from above. Staple bats or blanket insulation to the old ceiling, filling the space between the suspended ceiling.
If you lack the ceiling height for installation of a second ceiling, you can use acoustical ceiling tile to help deaden sound. You can glue the tiles directly onto a smooth, firm ceiling with an adhesive such as mastic cement. Or nail 1-by-2 furring strips at right angles to the joists and nail or staple the tiles to the strips.
Here's How is a column about home care and construction. Send inquiries to Here's How, Copley News Service, P.O. Box 120190, San Diego, CA 92112-0190 or send e-mail to copleysd@copleynews.com. Only questions of general interest can be answered in the column.
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